Texas

There is debate on whether Big Bend is the most remote national park in the United States. I vote it is definitely a contender. The nearest large airport in El Paso is over four hours away. Even so, people from Trail Roots Running Community drive the 7.5 hours from Austin to put on the Big Bend Ultra Trail Races so that people like me can explore some of the most beautiful and diverse terrain that Texas has to offer. From desert canyons to towering mountains, Big Bend is home to one of the best stargazing skies in the country. It also has a rich cultural history. Previous inhabitants include prehistoric indigenous people who hunted large game animals, Native Americans that developed agriculture, and historic mining communities that are now ghost town relics. The land has nourished life for centuries. To say I am blown away by Big Bend is an understatement. It is one of my favorite areas in the country.

Race day brought about 144 runners to the start of the 55k at Big Bend Ranch State Park. Most of them from somewhere else in Texas. I learned that Houston is 9 hours away, which made my 9 hour drive from Albuquerque seem less crazy. Weather was perfect with plenty of sun but cooler temps and no wind. The race felt casual but started on time. I love 7 am starts. They are early enough to catch the sunrise show, but late enough for better sleep. I was able to sleep a whole 8 hours and that never happens before a race.

I was not sure what to expect about the trails. Would they be sandy? Rocky? Hard packed dirt? I was surprised at how runnable they were. Limestone walls, sandstone, mud, and volcanic rock make up much of the Chihuahuan Desert. The single track ran through canyons, to the top of plateaus with expansive views, down to some desert valleys with a little jeep road thrown in here and there. We even ran around a mound of crystals…which reminds me…the surrounding area is a rock hounder’s dream.

Running a desert race is much different than a mountain one. I highlight the word running. Because the hills were short, there is not much hiking, which makes it faster, but in some ways more exhausting. My plan was to stick with a consistent pace and spend little time at the aid stations which were placed every 5-7 miles for strategic water refills. I made a few trail friends. One lady who was clearly faster than me, kept disappearing and then popping up behind me after several trail stops. It reminded me of “Where’s Waldo?” as she kept disappearing and reappearing while we leapfrogged. We chatted for a bit; she was training for The Canyons 100k and was running for a gut check. I kept offering to let her run ahead of me but she kept saying that we are in the same place (although I knew obviously she was still faster). She finished a few minutes ahead. Then there was another man who would sprint down a small hill while whooping with excitement (whoop whoop!!), film himself, I’m sure for his social media feed, then he would sprint in front of me for a bit, and then I’d pass him again while he walked. I joked that he had two speeds; spaz and walk. He finished before me too and I thanked him for his entertaining enthusiasm. I pushed myself as I wanted to win the master’s division but I ended up coming in second, about an hour behind the winner who was quite impressive! I now have something to shoot for.

After the race I was greeted by abundant food, drink, a live band, and a welcome seat. The finish line was a festive scene but I was too exhausted to sit there long. My hotel called and I wanted to lay flat to recover. However a few hours later I rejoined the town at the famous Starlight Theater in Terlingua, and I enjoyed talking to other runners sitting at the bar and ate Texas quail.

The following day I made the pilgrimage to the National Park just to soak in the natural hot springs on the Rio Grande and wave to the Mexican border. It was just what I needed, 105 degree soaking and a short hike. I was again joined by other runners who had the same idea.

Thank you to the Austin Running Community for introducing me to one of the most culturally fascinating and beautiful parts of the country.