Have you heard of the Denali 30% club? Supposedly there is a 30% chance the Denali summit can be viewed on any given summer day. Sitting at 20,310 feet, Denali, for “the tall one,” is the tallest mountain in North America. It creates its own weather and much of the time is obscured behind clouds. Multiple friends tell me they visited Alaska at least 5 times before they caught a glimpse of the grand peak. Although people argue the 30% statistic is flawed, I knew my chances to see Denali would be slim. But I could still hope!
My idea to run the K’esugi Ridge Traverse sprouted two years ago. The race was appealing for several reasons. First, it is a small race in a beautiful location. Second, I love traverses. Running a traverse feels like travelling somewhere important. It also implies views and ridgelines and wide-open spaces. In this case views of the Alaska Range were on tap. The race has a strict cutoff of 9 hours, 20 minutes (this year it was extended to 9 hours and 30 minutes due to course conditions). I emailed the race director to see if my race qualifier allowed entry and got the blessing to register. Only 100 people are permitted to run because of the backcountry nature of the course. This year there were 40 full traverse and 60 half traverse runners. I scanned the entrants and noted that I was the oldest runner signed up for the full traverse, and only one of four runners from the lower 48. Yikes…
I flew into Anchorage two days prior so I could explore. The drive from Anchorage to Denali State Park is full of side trips! I explored Palmer coffee shops, the Matanuska River, and hiked Hatcher’s Pass. I lucked out as the clouds briefly cleared so I caught some views. Then I moved on to my destination in the state park.
The Historic Chulitna River Lodges in Denali State Park is the perfect spot to land before the race. Shout out to them! I HIGHLY recommend staying there…this small cozy set of cabins is a slice of Alaska heaven. Apparently the property sat on the market for 10 years before the current owner purchased it. Where most people saw derelict run-down abandoned cabins, Mark Major saw potential. He spent several years rehabbing each cabin, maintaining its character and refinishing most of the original log construction. The result is a beautiful base camp where you can have communal meals and meet other travelers, but also maintain privacy in your own cabin. Across the street from the landing strip is a full view of Denali (would I see it?) and the property abuts a beautiful lake with a view of K’esugi Ridge.
The race started at 9 am (luxurious!). There was a quick pre-race briefing (no aid stations so be self-sufficient, must make the cutoffs for an official time, weather is variable but warm, It’s muddy, very few trail markings, if you sprain your ankle it’s on you ;-) …and have fun!). The parking lot felt like a locals hangout. I borrowed some bug spray, noted some of the famous locals (the lady with the current FKT projected to win, and an older shirtless gentleman with long braids who is an Alaskan trail running fixture). Then a count down…and we were off! Full traverse and half traverse runners together. Was I crazy? Would I make the cut-off? And more importantly, would I see Denali?
By its very nature, most traverses require climbing. Mingling with the half-traverse runners on a single track led to a fast start and I climbed the first 2000 feet too quickly. By the time I reached the top, soaked from the thick fog, I was out of breath. I slowed down as soon as the course opened up which quickly put me at the end of the 39 other full traversers. There was a lot of slippery descents, stream crossings and boulder hopping. I was drenched. Should I have brought a rain jacket? The clouds didn’t bode well for seeing Denali. My new goal was to preserve my ankles and footing. Occasionally the trail was runnable and I tried to make up some time on those sections, but ultimately, I was just being careful and taking my time.
I joined up with a man who was running the half traverse. He had hiked the whole route a week ago in the full sun while basking in views of the Alaska range and Denali (he later shared these photos with me). It made me want to come back to see what I was missing! But as our run continued the clouds lifted and views subtly appeared. The top of the traverse was rocky but much more runnable. It warmed up and I dried out. I never felt much thirst and I had to remind myself to eat and drink-which I admit I was lazy about. This felt more like an adventure than a race.
And then there it was! I saw the VERY TIP of Denali emerge through the clouds! It was surreal how it subtly appeared, just the very tip, but still had an enormous presence. Seeing it boosted my mood and I picked up my pace. Then it was gone again, hidden behind the clouds.
By now I had caught up with a small group of runners all pushing the cut-off for the half-traverse. I was fully satisfied with my brief Denali spotting and had to tell everyone about it. There was a benefit to being last! The weather was supposed to improve towards the afternoon which would increase my chances of more Denali sightings! This became my new strategy… keep moving and don’t blow the cut-off, but take lots of photos!
The second part of the traverse was even more isolating. Now there were only 39 runners on the course and they were all well-ahead. I was in the back with another man from Valdez who was having difficulty with the heat. To me it felt great, but apparently for Alaska it was warm. We meandered down the trail through a bushwacking section, down, down, down. More mud bogs, logs, streams, and rocks. Then we had to climb back up to the traverse on the other side. I actually felt stronger the longer I went. I think this is something to note: I’m either starting out too slow or I should be running longer races. After the second long climb the course was quite runnable. By this time the sun was shining and clouds were clearing, and while the finishers were enjoying the finish line celebration, I was watching Denali and the Alaska range slowly emerge from the clouds! It was as spectacular as I imagined!
Finally, I reached the trailhead for Byers Lake. I knew from talking to another runner that the descent into Byers was a swath of runnable switchbacks. I was pushing the cut-off but I felt I could make it if I hurried. But wait! There was one more view of Denali! It was the best one! That meant another stop for more photos, then move again. Running, running, running, I finally came up to a sign that said 1.6 miles to the finish. I had about 20ish minutes left. It was going to be close. I came up behind a man walking and asked if he thought we’d make it. “No, the cutoff already happened” he said. “No, it was extended 10 minutes!” I said. The runner then started to hurry and decided to go for it behind me. He ended up making it!
Just before the end I stupidly made a wrong turn into the wrong parking lot. I saw course markings but then I heard voices and followed the voices to the parking lot instead. I ran into a lady and asked, “where is the finish line?” She looked at me like I was crazy and knew nothing about it. I realized I took a wrong turn and I backtracked down to the course. I started to sprint, with barely a minute to spare, kicking myself that I made a wrong turn. I dry-heaved a few times but kept going. Two other runners had passed me while I took my detour, but then I turned the corner and the crowd cheered me on, and I sprinted to the finish with 15 seconds to spare. Three runners (including myself) all finished within the last minute! I was last but what a save nevertheless! We all celebrated and felt accomplished to log an official finish.
The after-party was still happening and the wonderful volunteers made sure we all had food and recovery options. There was a wet tub for washing the mud, compression boots with reclining chairs, and even a massage therapist! I enjoyed hanging out chatting with the other runners while I ate a kimchi cheeseburger, and the race director Matias graciously found me a ride back to my place when I was ready.
K’esugi ridge and Alaska left my heart full. I made some new friends. I can’t wait to go back to the Chulitna River Lodges in the winter to check out the snow and fulfil my next Alaska quest: to see the Aurora and Denali in the winter.
